Florida Pests

All About Termites

Subterranean Termites: These are the most common termites attacking buildings and are found throughout the United States. From nests in the ground they invade where wood contacts the soil or by building earthen tubes to provide protected access to wood above ground. Winged reproductives are about 1/2 inch long and workers and soldiers about 1/4 inch long.

Dampwood Termites: These are the largest American termites, with the winged forms over 1 inch long. Most species occur along the Pacific coast, with some in Florida and the Southwest, infesting wet wood, such as poles, posts and pilings. They do not build tubes to reach structures. Feces are characteristic oval-shaped pellets.

Drywood Termites: These are larger than subterranean termites but smaller than dampwood termites. They attack dry, sound wood which need not be in contact with the ground. They are the most common termite pest in the Southwest, infesting poles, lumber piles, buildings and trees. They spread by the flight of winged reproductives, which after mating enter through crevices in nearby wood, especially under the eaves. Unlike subterranean termites, they do not build earthen tubes and their tunnels in wood are smooth and clean-fecal material being dry pellets which are neatly stored or expelled in sawdust-like piles. These termites are not native to Southeast Tennessee and are not a problem pest in this area.

Powderpost or Furniture Termites: These termites infest dry woodwork, floors and furniture in the Gulf states. Their presence is usually indicated by the constant dropping of fine, powdery fecal pellets. Most unusual, all castes are small. Like drywood termites, there may be many small colonies in the same building.

What Can You Do Against Termites?
Termites avoid extremes of heat and cold as well as storms and predators by living what is known as a "cryptobiotic" or hidden way of life. This makes them extremely difficult for untrained personnel to detect until the damage they cause becomes obvious. Termites can attack all types of wood. Even termite-resistant woods, such a tidewater red cypress and western red cedar, can ultimately be attacked, because they lose their natural resistance with aging. Keeping termites out is extremely difficult, because in seeking wood to eat they have been known to penetrate ordinary brickwork, tar and asphalt, roofing felt and cracks in concrete. Professionally installed metal termite shields can be effective, but they may subsequently fail because of corrosion, accidental disturbance, or building settlement. Likewise, previously-applied chemical barriers may have been later disrupted during landscaping or construction of home extensions. Re-application of chemicals to the soil against termites is not a do-it-yourself option because these products are not available to homeowners and, in any case, all pesticide treatments against termites require special equipment and knowhow. However, here are 10 measures you can carry out that can help protect your property.

10 Things You Can Do
1. In new construction, specify the proper installation of termite shields on foundations, piers and other structural elements, and between wooden steps or porches and the main structure, to prevent termite access from the soil.
2. Eliminate wood contact with the ground (e.g. by replacing wooden posts and piers with concrete ones, and by supporting wooden steps on a concrete base at least 6 inches above the ground).
3. Regrade soil around the perimeter to ensure drainage away from the building and to maintain at least 6 inches clearance between wood siding or shingles and the ground.
4. Ensure there is at least 18 inches clearance in crawl spaces between all horizontal timbers and the ground.
5. Reduce humidity in crawl spaces by ensuring adequate cross-ventilation. Covering the ground with roofing paper will also reduce humidity under buildings by reducing evaporation from the soil.
6. Screen all vents, including vents in eaves, attics, walls and crawl spaces, with 20-mesh non-corroding metal screening to prevent termite reproductives entering. This is especially useful against drywood termites.
7. Remove any wooden debris which might become a source of infestation beneath the building, including scrap wood, form boards, old tree roots, and even sawdust.
8. Fill any crevices or voids where they might help subterranean termites move from the ground to wood in buildings, including foundation cracks, hollow blocks, gaps between stucco and the wall and crevices around pipework. Seal cracks, checks and knotholes, which are favorite accesses for drywood termites.
9. Remove infested stumps and trees near buildings. Arrange for utility companies to remove badly infested poles (particularly upwind of buildings), since these can be a major source of flying drywood termites.
10. Dispose of inexpensive items of furniture infested with furniture termites and check any second-hand furniture prior to purchase.

10 Things Everyone Should Know About Termites
Did You Know?

1. There are over 2,000 known species of termites, of which 55 different species live in the United States.
2. Termites are related to cockroaches and fossil evidence indicates termites are among the world's oldest group of insects-perhaps originating over 250 million years ago.
3. Termites are social insects and live in colonies which often contain thousands of individuals and in some species over 1 million.
4. Each colony contains a queen termite which produces the young and may live 15 years or more.
5. Queen termites are the only insects which grow after becoming adults. This growth relates to increasing egg production, which may exceed 1,000 eggs per day in some species.
6. Termites mostly eat wood or wood products such as paper, but they can also destroy clothing and leather. Some species cultivate and eat fungi.
7. Subterranean termites mostly invade buildings from nearby nests in the ground, but other types can enter by flying or by being introduced in infested firewood, lumber and furniture.
8. A colony of subterranean termites containing 300,000 workers can eat wood equivalent to 20 linear feet of two-by-four in one year.
9. In general it takes 3 to 8 years for subterranean termites to cause extensive structural damage, but the Formosan subterranean termite, which is now a pest in some states, can cause severe damage in only 3 months.
10. In the United States, termites are estimated to cause more than $1 billion in property damage each year.

Appearance and Habits of Termites
Termite colonies have a caste system in which different types of castes of termite perform different functions. Typically there are three castes: reproductives (the king and queen termites, which are initially winged but after swarming lose their wings, mate and produce offspring); workers (these small wingless, blind individuals are the most common type and are responsible for all the wood damage and for feeding the young and other castes); soldiers (these large-headed, wingless, blind termites protect the colony against predators, especially ants). Dampwood and drywood termites have no workers-instead nymphs perform their tasks before developing into soldiers or reproductives.

All About Ants!

Carpenter Ants:
Among the largest of all ants. Worker ants are usually 1/4 to 1/2 inch long, with large heads, shiny black bodies and no sting. They eat almost anything but cause most damage by tunneling in wood, both indoors and outdoors, to make smooth, "sculptured" nest cavities.

Pavement Ants:
Small blackish-brown ants. Workers 1/10 to 1/8 inch long with mild sting. Mostly nesting outdoors under stones or in cracks in paving, but often invading homes seeking food and sometimes nesting in crevices indoors in winter.

Pharaoh Ants:
Very small yellow or reddish ants. Workers only 1/16 to 1/12 inch long with mild sting. Originated in tropics and mostly found nesting in warm (80(-86(F), humid crevices indoors, such as near radiators and sinks. Active throughout the year, eating and contaminating all foodstuffs and sometimes attacking invalids and newborn babies. Easily spread between buildings on groceries and laundry.

Argentine Ants:
Small brown ants. Workers 1/10 inch long, with no sting but a severe bite. Found throughout the South and California, and in some other states. Mostly nesting in the ground under boards, tree stumps, concrete walks, and leaf piles, but sometimes overwintering or nesting indoors, especially in heating ducts. Eats almost anything but prefers sweet foods and frequently establishes trails to raid food sources in homes.

Fire Ants:
Small reddish ants with blackish abdomen. Workers 1/16 to 1/4 inch long with powerful stings. Found in the Southern states, Arizona and California. Some species form large nest mounds in open ground, while others nest under boards, rocks and plants, and sometimes under buildings, especially near fire hearths. They eat everything from cereals to meat, and attack domestic animals and people, especially invalids and babies.

What Can You Do Against Ants?
Many species of ants remain outdoors and are not pests. In fact, ants may be beneficial when they are predators on crop pests, and some are useful pollinators of plants. Ants can also improve soil quality because their tunneling activity enhances soil drainage and aeration and helps recycle soil nutrients. However, those ants which cause harm to people or property must be controlled using appropriate chemical and nonchemical methods. The choice of pesticide is especially important because some pesticides, particularly over-the-counter brands, are readily detected by ants and cause them to disperse and infest new locations. Also, many pesticides used by consumers perform poorly on soil and other porous surfaces, and are adversely affected by rainfall and ultraviolet light outdoors or by the heat and humidity in places where ants choose to nest indoors. Consequently, the selection and use of pesticides against harmful ants is usually best left to professionals. However, here are 10 nonchemical measures you can carry out that will discourage ants and complement other measures taken by professional pest control operators.

10 Things You Can Do
1. Guard against importing ants by checking incoming materials for "hitchhiking" ants. Pharaoh ants can be carried in luggage, laundry and groceries, and Argentine ants may be introduced in balled nursery stock.
2. Trim trees and bushes away from buildings to discourage ant passage.
3. Remove plants that attract ants because of their fruit or nectar, or because they harbor honeydew-producing insects (e.g. fig trees, cherry laurel, bamboo, oleander).
4. Eliminate tree stumps, leaf piles, boards on the ground and other favored nest sites outdoors.
5. Seal cracks in walks and driveways and rot holes in trees where these provide harborage for ants.
6. Store firewood off the ground away from building, and check it for pests before bringing it indoors.
7. Screen windows and vents, and seal crevices in foundations and around doors, windows and vents to discourage ant entry.
8. Correct outside moisture problems, such as leaking flashing, clogged gutters and downspouts and soil-wood contact.
9. Ensure good ventilation in attics and eaves, and eliminate moisture problems caused by plumbing leaks or condensation in bathrooms and kitchens.
10. Keep food and garbage in tightly fitting containers, especially overnight, when many ants are most active.

10 Things Everyone Should Know About Ants
Did You Know?

1. There are an estimated 10,000 different species of ants worldwide.
2. Some experts believe ants are more numerous than any other group of creatures on earth.
3. Ants are related to wasps and bees and live in colonies or nests containing worker ants and one or more queen ants.
4. Worker ants may live 7 years and queen ants up to 15 years. A colony of ants may survive more than 20 years.
5. Ant colonies of some species may contain more than half a million ants.
6. Many ants have powerful bites, but some species, especially fire ants and harvester ants, have poison stings which cause pain and sometimes disfigurement and death of people, pets and wildlife.
7. Ants eat a wide range of foodstuffs and can cause food contamination in homes. Outdoors, crops and ornamentals can be damaged directly by ants or because ants may protect aphids from predators in return for honeydew.
8. Some ants are small enough and persistent enough to get into almost anything searching for food. They are a particular hazard in hospitals where they penetrate sterile packs.
9. Ants can spread disease organisms. One species, the Pharaoh ant, which invades homes, restaurants and hospitals can carry more than 20 types of bacteria, including several responsible for gastrointestinal and urinary infections.
10. Carpenter ants can cause major structural damage in homes. Some species of ants also cause short circuits by chewing wiring, while others cause settling of roads and even runways by excavating soil.

All About Spiders
American House Spider:
Adult female body about 1/3 inch long - males smaller. The almost globular abdomen is brownish with dark and light streaks and patches. This is one of many species that weaves irregular webs known as cobwebs. Web sites are chosen at random and if a web does not catch enough prey (mostly flies), it is abandoned and the spider builds another web. Most dirty cobwebs seen indoors are abandoned webs. After mating, the female lays about 250 eggs in a silken sac about 1/4 inch long, which is placed near the web center. The eggs hatch into spiderlings in about 8 days and several egg sacs are produced each year.

Black Widow Spider:
Adult female body about 1/2 inch long - males smaller. Color variable but commonly black with red hourglass mark on underside. Weaves cobwebs and, like the house spider, occurs throughout U.S.A., but more commonly in South and Southwest. Builds webs in and around homes, often under objects. Females rarely leave the web, spending most daylight time in a silk tunnel near the center waiting for prey. Adult males do not attack prey or bite, but wander in search of females, often mating several times and sometimes being killed by mate. After mating, the female lays about 400 eggs in a silk sac and several egg sacs are produced each year. Eggs hatch in 8-10 days and the spiderlings disperse within a few days, living independently and reaching maturity in about 3 months. Adult females can live over 1 year. Black widow venom contains powerful neurotoxins which can cause several pain at the site of the bite and elsewhere.

Brown Recluse Spider:
Yellowish to dark brown, with longish body and legs. Adult female body about 1/2 inch long. Mostly found in the South and Midwest, this is the most venomous of many related brown spiders, all of which have a dark brown fiddle shaped mark on their backs. They wander around at night hunting insects, usually taking prey back to a web spun in a quiet location, such as attics or closets. They also hide in shoes, trousers and other clothing. Adults and young of both sexes are venomous and will bite if disturbed. Bites may cause severe pain and disfiguring scars. Females produce 1 to 5 egg sacs, each containing about 50 eggs, and may live over 4 years.

What Can You Do Against Spiders?
In many cases the presence of a few spiders is not a problem and requires no specific action. For instance, the spiders known as orb weavers, which spin wheel-shaped webs, are not dangerous to people and almost always live outdoors. Indeed, they may be useful in controlling garden pests. Likewise, a few spiders indoors is usually no problem if they are not dangerous species. However, a lot of spiders can be a serious nuisance because of the unsightly webs and because of spots of spider excrement on windows, drapes, or more valuable items, such as paintings.
Where highly poisonous spiders are present, particularly if there are young, sick or elderly people in the home who are often more vulnerable to spider venom, specific action against spiders is recommended. Since spiders are predators, which feed mostly on insects, a homeowner's main focus should be on discouraging spiders' prey.

Here are 10 measures you can take against spiders.
1. Trim back or remove bushes, weeds and grass around foundation to discourage insect and spider activity.
2. Remove outdoor cover favored by black widows and brown recluse spiders, including loose bark, logs, old bricks and concrete blocks, and other seldom disturbed debris. Move woodpiles away from the house.
3. Check patio furniture, firewood, cut flowers and other items prior to bringing them indoors and remove any "hitchhiking" pests.
4. Eliminate exterior lighting close to the house, especially near doorways, or use lamps which have minimal attractancy to insects.
5. Screen windows and vents, caulk exterior crevices and weatherstrip doors to reduce entry by spiders on their prey.
6. Eliminate clutter in closets, attics, basements, garages, etc. and dispose of old boxes, unused clothing etc. to reduce indoor cover for pests.
7. Regularly clean sinks and drains to discourage breeding of certain flies which spiders thrive upon. 8. Vacuum regularly around windows, doorways, corners of rooms, under shelving and furniture, and behind mirrors and pictures.
9. Ensure adequate ventilation in attics, basements, crawl spaces and other areas, since excessive humidity encourages the pests upon which spiders prey.
10. In areas where highly venomous spiders are common, check shoes and clothes left out overnight and particularly any work clothes left in a garage, before putting them on. Many bites from brown recluse spiders result from spiders in clothing.

NOTE: Wear thick gloves, coveralls and stout shoes when handling firewood, clearing debris, etc; in areas suspected of harboring dangerous spiders.

10 Things Everyone Should Know About Spiders
Did You Know?

1. There are about 35,000 known species of spiders in the world and in most states in the U.S. there are at least 400 species.
2. Spiders are related to ticks, mites and scorpions, and like them have four pairs of legs, and no antennae or wings.
3. Spiders are predators, mostly feeding on insects and other small creatures, including other spiders, but able to go without food for long periods.
4. Almost all species have poison fangs which they use to inject venom which kills or paralyzes their prey.
5. Spiders cannot swallow solid food. Instead, after immobilizing their prey, they inject saliva containing protein-splitting enzymes, and after an hour or so the resulting liquidized interior is sucked out, leaving a dry husk.
6. Spiders, along with snakes, are among the most commonly feared creatures. This fear may be inherited rather than learned and is shared by some other primates, including chimpanzees.
7. Most spiders are harmless because their fangs cannot penetrate human skin or because they have weak venom or none at all. Most species of tarantulas are capable of causing painful bites, but they are not aggressive and are commonly kept as pets.
8. Only one type of spider in the world is aggressive. This is the funnel web spider of Australia, which attacks people without provocation and is highly poisonous.
9. In the U.S.A., the most poisonous spiders are the brown recluse and black widow spiders. These are mostly shy, but will bite if provoked and can cause severe injury or even death.
10. Spiders produce silk, which they use to make egg sacs, shelters for themselves, or traps and webs for catching prey. The gossamer threads produced by young spiderlings enable them to be dispersed by the wind, sometimes traveling hundreds of miles.

All About Perimeter Invaders

Field Crickets:
Large insects (usually over 1/2 inch long) sometimes winged but mostly using powerful hind legs for hopping and jumping. Noted for the chirping "song" of adult males. They usually feed on vegetation outdoors but invade buildings during droughts and cold weather, often attracted by lights, and eat foodstuffs, paper and clothing.

Cave Crickets:
Large insects (usually over inch long) They have a noticeably humped back and for that reason they are sometimes called camel crickets. They range in color from light brown to a medium gray. They typically live and breed in crawlspaces and in basements behind items that are infrequently moved. They typically move into the heated portion of the home when the weather changes and the evenings become cooler. They are not a destructive pest, however they are aggressive and will hop toward any perceived threat.

Earwigs:
Adult insects up to 1 inch long, characterized by pairs of forcep-like organs of defense at end of body. They scavenge at night, hiding under porches, rocks, compost, litter, etc. in daytime. Feed mostly on vegetation outdoors, but often invade and eat stored food indoors.
Ground Beetles:
Large, long-legged, mostly flightless insects, often black or metallic blue or green color. They actively chase insect prey and often enter homes through doorways.
Sowbugs and Pillbugs: These are not insects but crustaceans, related to crabs and lobsters, adapted to life on land. They have 7 pairs of legs and an oval body up to 3/4 inch long covered in 7 "armor plates". They feed on decaying organic matter, especially under logs and other moist locations, but frequently invade damp basements.

Centipedes:
Flattened, elongated creatures up to 6 inches long, with one pair of long legs on most segments, antennae, and powerful poison jaws. These fast-moving predators catch and kill insect prey in damp situations indoors and outdoors.

Millipedes:
Tube-shaped bodies, 1 to 2 inches long, with two pairs of legs on most segments. Slow-moving creatures which mostly feed on decaying vegetation in damp areas outdoors, but sometimes invade homes, especially in the fall.

Scorpions:
Eight-legged creatures, related to spiders, mostly 2 to 3 inches long, with a pair of large pincers at front and a stinging tail. Found under tree bark, rocks and logs, especially in South and Southwest but as far North as Canada, feeding on insects. They commonly enter homes where they can survive without feeding for months.

What Can You Do Against Perimeter Invaders?
Fully effective pest control measures require expert knowledge of each pest. While the details vary with each pest situation, the main focus will generally be on outdoor measures aimed at preventing pest buildup and pest entry. Pesticides can play an important role in the fight against perimeter invaders. However, many over-the-counter pesticides do not perform well when used on porous outdoor surfaces, such as soil, wood and concrete. Also, the performance of most pesticides will be adversely affected by outdoor conditions, especially rainfall and ultraviolet light. In addition, special pesticide formulations or application techniques may be necessary outdoors to achieve control without harming plants, wildlife or groundwater resources. For these reasons, the selection and use of pesticides against perimeter invaders is best left to professionals. However, here are 10 specific nonchemical measures you can carry out that will discourage perimeter invaders and complement measures taken by professional pest control operators.

10 Things You Can Do
1. Keep lawns cut short and trim bushes and trees back from the building to reduce cover for pests.
2. Keep gutters and outside drains clear and ensure proper grade against foundation walls to reduce moisture available to pests.
3. Maintain a dry, weed-free, bare strip of concrete or gravel about 3 feet wide around the foundations to create an inhospitable zone for pests.
4. Remove outside accumulations of leaves, lumber, etc., which provide cover and a moist microclimate for pests.
5. Store firewood off the ground and away from the house to reduce the chances of it becoming a "beachhead" for invading pests.
6. Remove unnecessary exterior lights which attract pests, especially near doors and windows. Where exterior lighting is necessary, use lamps with minimal attractiveness to pests (e.g. high pressure sodium vapor lamps), and preferably mount them away from the walls, on posts, etc.
7. Screen windows and vents and caulk crevices through which pests might enter.
8. Ensure exterior doors shut tightly; tension strips or sweeps to keep out cold will also help exclude pests.
9. Always keeping doors shut when not in use, perhaps with self-closing devices, will make pest entry harder.
10. Check firewood, patio furniture and cut flowers before bringing them indoors, and remove any "hitch-hiking" pests.

NOTE: Additional nonchemical measures may be appropriate. For instance, placing the legs of a crib in wide-mouthed glass jars can stop scorpions crawling up. Altering irrigation of your lawn and ornamentals from evening to morning will discourage all those pests which are active and seek moisture at night, Professional pest control operators may be able to advise you on other things you can do in your particular circumstances to fight perimeter invaders.

10 Things Everyone Should Know About Perimeter Invaders Did You Know?
1. More than 9/10ths of all known creatures are insects, and most yards contain hundreds of thousands of individual insects.
2. There are more than 1 million species of insects, and the total weight of insects on our planet has been calculated to be more than 10 times the weight of all human beings.
3. Your home can be invaded by creatures which fly, walk, climb, jump or burrow.
4. Some occasionally invading pests cause painful stings or bites and, in the case of some scorpions, even death may result particularly among the very young or elderly.
5. Some perimeter invaders, such as earwigs can not only eat human food but also contaminate it with their own body parts and excretions.
6. Invading pests with chewing mouthparts, such as crickets and many beetles, can cause severe damage to valuable documents and clothing.
7. Some invaders, especially millipedes and earwigs, emit foul odors which can taint premises and upset occupants.
8. Pests such as millipedes, earwigs and crickets, sometimes invade buildings in hordes of thousands, particularly during droughts or cold weather, causing major visual annoyance, debris and disturbance of occupants.
9. Some perimeter invaders die of starvation or desiccation soon after entering homes, but others such as some crickets and beetles can survive and become a permanent nuisance.
10. In some areas, perimeter invaders such as earwigs have built up to such nuisance levels that property values have fallen.

All About Stinging Insects

Cicada Killers:
These large solitary wasps, about 1 1/2 inches long, hunt cicadas and put them in burrows as food for the young. Rarely sting people, but their burrows damage lawns.

Umbrella or Paper Wasps:
These slender, reddish or brown social wasps build small nests shaped like an inverted umbrella, often under eaves. Can be dangerous when they nest near doors and windows.

Hornets:
Larger and less distinctly striped than yellow jackets. European hornets nest in hollow trees and attics. Bald-faced hornets build exposed nests which hang in trees like large grayish footballs. Both these social wasps are very aggressive.

Yellow Jackets:
These black and yellow striped social wasps are small (workers about 1/2 inch long), but their large nests may contain over 5,000 individuals. Nests are concealed underground, or in hollow trees, wall voids and attics. They often scavenge around food facilities and trash containers and sting repeatedly with little provocation.

Bumble Bees:
Resemble carpenter bees but top of abdomen is hairy, not shiny. Social insects, forming small colonies, mostly underground. Can be pests when nesting near sidewalks or where children play.

Honey Bees:
Yellowish to blackish, with workers about 2/3 inch long. They are the most common social bees, vital for pollinating wildflowers and crops and for producing honey. They are unique in forming perennial colonies, using stored honey as food in adverse weather. Can become pests by nesting in wall voids. They are not very aggressive, and their barbed stinger stays in the wound, so they only sting once.

Carpenter Bees:
Solitary bees, usually darker and larger than honey bees. Each female chews a tunnel in wood in which she lays a row of eggs, sealing each egg in a cell with food derived from pollen and nectar. Nest tunnels are about 5 inches long, with an entrance about 1/2 inch wide. Tunneling by many bees over several years can cause major damage to siding, window sill, eaves, outdoor furniture and fences.

What Can You Do Against Bees and Wasps?
Bees and wasps should only be controlled when they are damaging property or endangering people. Too often, bees and wasps are killed when they pose no threat and may be beneficial. For instance, the large, dark, hairy wasps seen hovering over lawns may be digger wasps, which generally don't attack people but are very useful in getting rid of beetle grubs which attack grass.
Even when bees and wasps are really pests, homeowners should be wary about tackling them because of the risk of people being stung. Some over-the-counter pesticides make bees and wasps more aggressive and may cause them to surge out of their nests, stinging not only the pesticide applicator but anyone else nearby. Some pesticides may also make treated nests repellent so that bees and wasps mill around disoriented, perhaps entering nearby buildings and causing a greater nuisance. Nonchemical measures, such as knocking down nests of umbrella wasps from the eaves, may also be ineffective - the wasps may quickly rebuild their nests. However, here are 10 measures you can take to reduce problems from bees and wasps.

10 Things You Can Do
1. Eliminate problem plants close to the home, including certain flowering plants which attract bees and some plants producing honeydew or fruit which attract yellow jackets. Also, remove hollow trees where they might nest.
2. Seal crevices and screen vents which allow bees and wasps to establish nests in wall voids, eaves or attics.
3. Eliminate unnecessary exterior lighting, especially near doorways, since this attracts hornets in summer and fall.
4. Keep windows and doors closed or screened, especially during periods when social wasps are most busy scavenging.
5. Cover food and garbage which attracts wasps.
6. Where possible, avoid carrying sweet foods or drinks outside where wasps are foraging. Set down and leave any food attracting wasps.
7. Avoid sitting near trash barrels or food stands in parks, since these are often visited by wasps.
8. At picnics, check for bees and wasps before sitting on the ground, and check each mouthful when eating or drinking. Stings inside the mouth and throat are particularly dangerous.
9. Minimize use of perfume, after-shave or scented talc, which attract some insects which forage on flowers. If pestered, don't flap at wasps - leave the area or go indoors.
10. Be cautious near nests. In particular, don't cast a shadow on the nest, keep out of insect flight paths and walk softly near ground nests.

10 Things Everyone Should Know About Bees and Wasps
1. Bees and wasps are related to ants and fossil evidence.
2. There are several species of bees and about 4,000 different species of wasps in the U.S.A., including yellow jackets, hornets and cicada killers.
3. Many species of bees and wasps are solitary insects, but others are social insects, nesting together in communities comprising a queen and numerous workers.
4. Nests of some social wasps may contain 5,000 workers, while a large nest of honey bees may contain over 50,000 workers.
5. Wasps are scavengers and predators, the adults feeding on fruit juices and other sugar-rich liquids, and hunting for spiders, insects and other protein-rich materials to feed wasp larvae.
6. Bees collect pollen and nectar which is eaten by both adult and larval bees. Honey bees convert some nectar into honey which is stored and eaten later.
7. Yellow jackets and some other social wasps can cause food contamination when they scavenge on human food.
8. Bees and wasps cause many auto accidents when they get in vehicles and distract drivers.
9. Some bees and wasps regularly cause damage to lawns (e.g. burrows of cicada killers) and to buildings (e.g. carpenter bee tunnels in siding).
10. Bee and wasp stings kill about 40 people each year in the U.S.A. Sensitive people can die within 15 minutes of being stung, and many sting-related deaths may be misreported as heart attacks.